Friday, 12 April 2013

Days 175 to 177: Santiago, CHL to Mendoza, ARG

Day 175: Santiago, CHL to Las Cuevas, ARG (160 km)

From Santiago, we had decided that we would cross into Argentina next, and then comeback into Chile further south. Our plan that day was to make it to the city of Mendoza, but things didn't go as planned at all. The first 120 km of the day were uneventful, but once we got close the the border, there was a surprise waiting for us. The road into Argentina was closed until 8 PM for construction!! It was 1 PM when we got to the road block, so we had 7 hours to kill... blah. We had no choice but wait it out. We chatted with a few people, including a group of super friendly Brazilian bikers on a 3 week tour in Chile and Argentina.

In the line up:






The Brazilians and us:





Mihai attempted to repair his defective jobber heated vest, but run out of patience after 15 minutes and gave up. He'll have to fix it soon, though, as it will get colder as we move further south.






The road finally opened at 8 pm, and we started ascending in the mountains. We reached 3500 m about 20 minutes later, and it got COLD and windy. We still had to go through customs, so we had moved all the way to the front of the line up, right before the road opened. Our plan was to get there before everyone else. Well, we ended up getting shafted, as we had to stop to purchase mandatory liability insurance, while most of the vehicles in the line up passed us and got to the customs before us. As a result, we wasted another 3 hours in the line up. We were outside, and pretty miserable because of the cold wind. I had to leave my bike running, in order to have the heated vest on, and I was still cold.

It was around around midnight when we finally got our paperwork done. Another 20 km, and we found a skiing station with a few hotels, but all of them closed (off season...). Shit. It was another 160 km to Mendoza from there, and we were too cold and tired to continue on. That's where I noticed the four motorcycles of the Brazilian group we had met earlier that day. They were parked in front of one of the closed hotels. The door was open, so we went inside. We figured that if the Brazilians got a room, we should be able to do so as well. Well, there was no one at the reception at first, so Mihai went wandering around. He ended up finding the Brazilians, who invited us to stay with them, as they had 2 extra beds in one of their rooms.

It turned out that the hotel was indeed closed, but somehow they had met the owners of two apartments in there, and these people agreed to rent them for the night. They also brought them some food (burgers and pizza) from I dunno where, as there was no open restaurants around. The Brazilians shared their supper with us, and around 1:30 AM we all went to sleep. It had been a long and tiring day, even though we haven't done much riding.


Day 176: Las Cuevas, ARG to Mendoza, ARG

We parted ways with our Brazilian friends in the morning, and drove back for a few kilometers towards the border, as apparently there was a good sport to take pictures from. We took a dirt road, and 20 minutes later, we indeed made it to a pretty scenic spot.





















This was the first time I have encountered snow since the winter of 2011-12. I have not missed it at all.







We then took off towards Mendoza. After a while, the landscape changed and it got much warmer.








We ran into this strange religious sanctuary. People left there hundreds of plastic bottles filled with water. I need to find out what's the story behind it.







Later, it once again got cold and we caught some rain. Pretty shitty weather :/ We made it into Mendoza around 3 PM, and began the usual search for accommodation. We settled for a dorm in a youth hotel, for 10$ each. 

We didn't have any local currency, so the next mission was to get some money. We wanted to find a place where we could change our US dollars at the black market rate. Why? The black market rate for 1 USD is between 7.5 to 8 Pesos, whereas the official rate (in banks and change offices) is about 5.2 Pesos. We asked a guy at the hostel, and he told us to go to a change office, and that there would be ''black market'' money changers outside of the building.

Indeed, we got there, and immediately spotted one of the guys. He brought us to an office near by, and we changed out money. Easy peazy. The only downside is that Mihai got a better rate than I did (8 to  1 vs. 7.5:1 for me), as he had 100 USD bills and I had 20's.

Why such a difference in the official and black market rate? Argentinians can only purchase a limited amount of US dollars in their country, so if they want a larger amount, they need to buy from them from the black market.


Day 177: Mendoza, ARG

We spent a day walking around Mendoza, sightseeing and shopping for a chain and sprockets for Mihai's bike. 

Mendoza is a very chill town. Nothing spectacular (I only took a few pictures), but there is a nice vibe to it. It's clean, there's a lot of trees and parks, and many restaurants and bars in the part of town where we stayed. I definitely enjoyed this city.























Thursday, 11 April 2013

SPOT tracker problem

My SPOT tracker has been off since Valparaiso in Chile, as some people might have noticed. This is because my Ipod Touch disappeared mysteriously in our hotel room there. I have no idea how (I'm thinking it might have been stolen), but the problem is that I need the Ipod to activate the SPOT. This a stupid design, since the SPOT Connect that I have does not have external buttons, and therefore is not a stand alone device. Since I'm not going to buy a new Ipod now, my SPOT becomes pretty much useless for the remaining month of this trip.

That being said, Mihai's SPOT is still operational, just go to ''live tracking'' and click the link there.

Tuesday, 9 April 2013

Days 172 to 174: Santiago, CHL

Day 172: Valparaiso, CHL to Santiago, CHL (125 km)

Short 125 km ride to Santiago, once again on impeccable highways. Many wineries all along. We rolled into the metropolis around 2 PM. Before starting to look for lodging, we pulled into a Walmart for a quick budget lunch. It is much less irritating to look for a hotel when you´re not empty stomached.

It was a Sunday, everything was closed and the city was very quiet, especially for a metropolis with a 5 million population. There was a few streets closed in the centro, as the the Santiago marathon was held that day, but it didn´t cause us much problems with traffic. However, we did struggle again to find lodging. Most of the hostels were full, because of the marathon crowd, but also because the Lollapalooza music festival was in town over the weekend. We ended up finding a very nice place in the centre of town for 48 USD, including breakfast buffet. Not that expensive, considering how nice this Londres hostel is.

Days 173 and 174: Santiago, CHL




Santiago is an awesome city. Mihai and I loved the place, and could have easily spent several more days there, as there is a lot to see. Actually, in many ways it reminds me of Montreal: the centre is modern and clean, there are many parcs (including a mountain right in the middle of the city), the architecture is a mix of european and modern north american, there are some bohemian/artsy neighbourhoods with bars and bistros, there is a state of the art subway system (similar in size to the one in Mtl, but more modern). However, Santiago has a much better climate, and the center of the city is organized in a more clever way: there are many pedestrian walkways, and it is partially closed off to traffic. Something I wish we would see more of back home.


The Londres hostel, where we stayed:














We found some great ice cream in the area... Second best on this trip, on par with a joint Marco brought us in the Zona Sur of La Paz, in Bolivia.










Some shots from around the city:





















































A few panoramic shots of Santiago:

























Some cool street art:

















.... and one of the ugliest motorcycles I´ve seen. Apparently it´s German, which is hard to believe.






Up next... We´re crossing into Argentina. We´ll be back in Chile in a couple of days.

Days 169 to 171: TalTal, CHL to Valparaiso, CHL

Day 169: TalTal, CHL to Chungungo, CHL (590 km)


Yet another day of boring desert riding. Towards the end of the day, we decided to that we would camp that night, so we headed towards the coast. We found a half decent spot close to the tiny village of Chungungo. We were surprised by the amount of trash in the surroundings of such a small and remote settlement, but our site was fairly clean. We had a delicious dinner of ramen noodles and canned tuna, drank some Sangani leftovers from La Paz, and called it a night.

 




Day 170: Chungungo, CHL to Valparaiso, CHL (490 km)


We took off fairly early, and rode 65 km to the next major town, La Serena. There, we found a shopping mall with a Walmart (called Lider in Chile), so we stopped for a budget supermarket lunch: baguette, cold cuts and cheese. Chile is just too pricey for us to eat in restaurants 3 times a day, and especially when spending 40 USD a day on gas alone... 

We just passed through La Serena, but I liked what I saw. Pretty modern town, good weather, palm trees... A bit of a californian flavour to it. 

We arrived in Valparaiso in the afternoon, and struggled a little to find lodging. Finally, we had to settle for a tiny double bed room for 60 USD a night. At least breakfast was included (but damn they were cheap on butter and jam!), and the location was good.

Only two photos from the day:

 










Day 171: Valparaiso, CHL 

We spent a day in Valaparaiso. The city is ok, but all in all kind of small. It took us about 4 hours to see pretty much most of what there was to see. We were there over a weekend, and the night life was kind of disappointing. I think bars are so expensive that most of the youth prefers to hang out and drink either on the streets, or at someone´s place.

If I had to do it again, I would skip Valparaiso, in order to spend more time in Santiago. More on that later.

Panorama of Valparaiso:




Several military ships are stationed in the port. 
 







A few nice squares here and there.







Local O.G.´s hanging out.
 











 
Great weather that day. These guys seemed to enjoy it a lot:

 




Since most of the city is built on steep slopes, there are a few of these ancient lifts around. They are still functioning.










Someone seems to be really into Canada....






These guys were stripping the paint off this beat using a few grinders and abrasive wheels. It gave me painful flashbacks from my days of rebuilding a Lada Niva, and then the Suzuki Sidekick... Never again.





Some cool street art:
















A few more random shots from around town: