Saturday 24 November 2012

Puerto Escondido - Zipolite (Oaxaca, MX) - Days 31 to 35

We spent 2.5 days in Puerto Escondido. We found a cool and inexpensive hostel right by the beach. A room cost us something around 15$ per night. The town was very busy, since it was a long weekend in Mexico and there were some festivities going on. We allowed some time to wash our filthy riding gear and clothes, and to do some maintenance on the bikes. The rest of the time, we walked around town, relaxed on the beach, and hung out with other travelers at the hostel. It felt good to get off the bikes for a short while.

Puerto Escondido - View from upper part of town
Streaming UFC 154 - St-Pierre vs. Condit
Haircut. Cost: 35 pesos (2.75$)
Our most common meal in Mexico. Tacos con pastor. Tasty and cheap.
On day 33, we left PE and rode a short 60 km to another beach location called Zipolite. We had planned to rest there for a few more days. Zipolite is a fairly know hippie hang out. The town has a very laid back vibe and has not been spoiled by tourism too much. The beach is beautiful, and people are friendly. On top of that, accommodation, food and drinks are cheap. We lived on no more 30$ a day, even though we splurged on food and drinks. It´s place I definitely recommend, and I´d like to return there sometime.

In Zipolite, we stayed at the Dos Estrellas hostel, which is an interesting place on it's own. It is ran by Lea, a French expat. Lea's idea was that the hotel would also have a secondary role as a cultural center, so there are activities going on during the day for kids and adults. It's a cool idea, as the spot is always busy, and tourists get to mix with the local population. For the time we were there, there were games for kids, salsa lessons, yoga sessions, live music, chess and dominos. We noticed that some guests were helping out in the kitchen during the day (Dos Estrellas includes a restaurant as well), and in return would get to stay for free or at a reduced rate. Other locals were there helping out every day. I am not sure what's the arrangement, but I'm guessing that in return for their help, they probably get meals for free, or something like that. 

On our second day, we met Dwight from New Brunswick, another Canadian rider on his way to Argentina on a Kawasaki KLR 650. Dwight is writing a ride report (sort of a blog) on a well know motorcycle travel internet forum, advrider.com. On that day, I stopped by the internet cafe and was just browsing the website. When I clicked his ride report, I noticed that he posted on that same day that he was in Zipolite. I messaged him through the forum, and two hours later he was over at our hostel and we were having beers. Anyway, what a coincidence... With Dwight, Ken and Mike, we are now 5 Canadians going South, and there's probably a few more. We should meet more riders in Cantral America, as it is a natural bottle neck between the North and the South.

View of the beach in Zipolite
Beach in Mazunte, just a few kilometers away
Another view of the beach in Mazunte.
Chopped up VW Beetle

Dwight from New Brunswick, heading to Argentina as well.
Our hostel in Zipolite. Fun place.
Salsa class at the Dos Estrellas hostel
Dwight playing a game of chess with a local guy (US expat)
Mihai still working on his Salsa game

Dos Estrellas hostel - View from the beach
Yoga class on the beach
Football game on the beach, after sunset






Random thoughts:

After a few weeks on the road, I can say that 6 months is a little short for such a long distance trip. We have already passed on a several places I wished I had more time to hang out in.

However, even in a great place like Zipolite, we get the itch to ride the bikes again after 2-3 days. Seeing beautiful places and meeting people is fun, but riding the motorcycles is the best part of such a trip. This is a great advantage we have over backpackers, who don't have much fun transiting in buses or collectivos (mini-buses), nor the freedom to explore remote areas.

We haven't seen any rain since Moab, Utah, which of course is a good thing when on a motorcycle.

The tire combo we are using (Continental TKC 80 in front, and Bridgestone Trailwing TW42 in the back) has been working out really well so far. However, the front will be done by the time we reach Columbia.

We've been weighed before boarding the ferry in La Paz, and the total for the bike, myself and gear is 340 kg. It's 40 kg less for Mihai, but he's a skinny dude and somehow has slightly lighter luggage than I do.

Toilet seats are starting to become a rarity in some areas. I wonder if it's because they get stolen, or if there is another reason...

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